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Panorama Trail
A Hike into Yosemite Valley
from Glacier Point
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We woke to a perfect October morning - clear sky, cool temperature, and the fragrance of pine in the air. We had a quick bowl of oatmeal, coffee, and a banana at the Lodge cafeteria. We were on the first bus out of the valley for Glacier Point at eight thirty. Luckily we snagged the two front seats on the right side of the bus and got a great view all the way up the mountain. (If vertigo is a problem you might want to sit on the left side of the bus.)
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By ten o'clock we were standing on Glacier Point looking down on the valley floor thousands of feet below. The sun was bright and warm and well above Starr King Mountain when we headed down the first stretch of trail toward Illilouette Creek. This part of the hike zig zags down the mountain in long traverses through a burned area of forest. The long ago blaze obviously burned hot because the trees are completely gone with only a few blackened snags remaining. A new forest is being born and that morning the brush and small trees were full of birds and small animals. There was sign of deer, wolf and mountain lion on the pathway.
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Across the valley we could see our trail winding up toward the crest opposite Half Dome and Liberty Cap. We caught glimpses of Illilouette Falls as we continued down the path through a black oak forest. At the bottom of the small valley we crossed Illilouette Creek just above the falls and said hello to two folks that were having a late breakfast stream-side. Beside the trail there were graphic signs warning of the danger of playing in a creek just above a three hundred foot waterfall. We decided against a swim.
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After leaving Illilouette Creek our path wound steadily upward and there were frequent viewpoints along the way from which the entire valley opened up before us. Down on the valley floor we could see the prescribed burn that was scheduled for the meadow just across from Curry Village. As we watched the dense smoke fill the air we recognized how lucky we were to be high up above it all. Further along the way we had a spectacular view of the back of Half Dome - a sight few people get to see - and wonderful views of Liberty Cap.
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We ran into several other small groups of hikers along the way and two travellers on horseback. Because of the stupendous vistas this is a popular trail even in October and it is not realistic to believe that you can enjoy it in solitude. Fortunately the grandeur of the place calms the soul and quiets the heart, consequently most of the people that we ran into were polite and respectful of their surroundings. Fully half of the folks that we met were from one or another foreign country.
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The trail crests in heavy conifer forest and then heads down toward the Merced River winding out of Little Yosemite Valley and then continuing on to flow through Yosemite Valley proper. A number of trails connect in this part of the park and it is useful to have a map even though the rusty metal trail signs are generally adequate to find your way. Our route that day took us over to Nevada Falls at the base of Liberty Cap. We treated ourselves to an apple and a seat with a view. Squirrels scampered all around us on the solid granite bench that is the foundation over which the Merced River plunges down toward the valley far below.
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After our apple we continued on down past Clark Point before doubling back to Vernal Falls. As you get lower into the falls area the number of hikers increases dramatically as many folks walk up from the Valley to visit both Nevada and Vernal Falls. At the trail up to Vernal Falls we actually had to wait for people to pass before we could continue up the stairs that lead to the base of the falls. It was not as crowded as when we had done the trip in summer but it was still a lot of people. Fortunately both Nevada and Vernal Falls are beautiful enough to share.
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On the last leg of the trail we noticed that the silver shouldered ground squirrels did not seem to be begging as much as we had seen on earlier trips. It is just possible that the park ranger's efforts to teach visitors not to feed the animals is paying off. I always felt sorry for a squirrel who mistakenly stored food for winter that a well-meaning human had given him only to find that it spoiled before he needed it.
We walked through Happy Isles on the floor of the valley at dusk, got on the free shuttle bus and returned to our car.
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A leisurely nine miles in about seven hours - not a world record for speed
but one of the most beautiful hikes we have ever experienced.
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